Pressing and holding the right button activates the timer for the two-bath process. People seem divided on whether or not this matters, but it doesn’t seem to hurt. This can be used to reduce a color-shift caused by the pushing.I typically start with a pre-rinse with water that has been preheated alongside the chemicals to bring the film up to temperature. Note: The E6 process additionally allows to control the yellow-blue balance chemically by setting the PH-value in the color-developer. But this stems mainly from the "brightening" of the blacks. The color-shift that becomes visible above that, is towards blue or green. There is little color-shift(*) below two F-stops. Starting from three F-stops onward you will notice the "blacks" to brighten up. Up to two F-stops is usually not a big deal. Pushing of positive films (E6 process) is straightforward. This means: if you want a decent print quality, you may have to order a manual print. Pushing of negative films (C41 process) usually causes them to loose calibration with the automated printing processes (these are usually calibrated to color film types available on the market). For example: it is better to push 1600 ISO to 6400 ISO than to push 100 ISO to 200 ISO. it is better to push already high sensitive films further than to push a lower sensitive film to a higher ISO.the opposite (overexpose and lower development time) can be used to reduce contrast.It is possible to apply the experience from b/w films to color films: As this temperature (38 degrees Celsius) is significantly higher than with B/W processing this might be a challange. Paramount to all color processing is stable temperature. The same is possible with other "processors" like the Jomo drum or with the manual processors or with the good-ole Ilford box I have used a Colenta 130 machine (spinning drum type) which lets you set the first development time to anything between 0 and 30 minutes. You cannot reduce the development time below a certain margin (because the fixation step will not be finished then) and your maximum increase is also only around twice the time. You can only change the speed of the machine, but this affects all chemical steps the same way. With a linear machine like the colenta 30 E6 26 PRO there little options to change the development time. The rest of the processing steps should not be changed at all. You need to chenge the time of the first development stage only. The results with the E6 process were better than the ones from the C41 process. In my career as photographer I've pushed both, positive and negative films whenever necessary. To push a color film is actually surprisingly similar to pushing a b/w film With films available up to 1600 ISO this is rarely necessary. You rarely need to push a negative film because of the exposure latitude. I halfway agree with your second opinion. Thing is I can go to another developer who can lengthen dev time, but it costs around 3-4 times as much to develop per roll, than the above quoter. I am pushing fuji superia xtra from 400 to 800. The resulting prints might, for instance, have greenish shadows and pink highlights due to an image imbalance called 'crossed curves' that is very difficult to remove without careful adjustments in Photoshop. The manufacturers reluctantly accept that colour negative film can be pushed or pulled but do not recommend it, because the photographic results are unpredictable. There is seldom a need to adjust C41 development because there is so much exposure latitude in the film and the subsequent printing. "The process time cannot be altered, but 1 stop 400 - 800 would not make a huge difference so it would be fine to process this." I Was asking a developer about pushing colour film, they said: However, I'm also looking to get into colour C41 processing. I have experience in pushing b/w film in my home.
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